Love Ramen? Meet the Most Influential Persons Shaping the U.S. Ramen Scene – Part 1: Ramen Chefs
Published: Nov 14, 2024/ Last Updated:Nov 14, 2024
- 7 min read
Hello, ramen lovers across the nation!
We’re excited to bring you a topic that’s sure to pique your interest! In this edition, we’ll be shining the spotlight on the incredible personalities who have played a pivotal role in fueling the ramen boom we still enjoy today.
In a previous article, “WHAT CAUSED THE RAMEN BOOM IN THE U.S.” we explored the rise of ramen’s popularity stateside. We talked about how it all started with instant ramen, evolving in the 21st century with the arrival of authentic ramen shops. While reflecting on that, it is interesting to find just how much impact influencers—such as bloggers and YouTubers—have had in spreading the love for authentic ramen. Their contributions have been vital in making ramen a culinary sensation.
But there’s another important factor: the passionate ramen chefs themselves. The unique menus they create often reflect their personalities, and it’s that personal touch that adds so much value to the ramen experience. You can feel the heart and soul they pour into each bowl.
In this article, we’ll dive deeper into the people behind the scenes—the key figures who sparked and continue to shape the ramen movement. We’ve split this into two parts, and today, we’re starting with the Ramen Chef category by introducing four standout individuals.
So, without further ado, let’s get started!
- Index
■Ivan Orkin
Image by ©Kim Ahlström, Flickr.com
Ivan Orkin is one of the most influential ramen chefs in the United States. After graduating from the Culinary Institute of America, he honed his skills at several fine dining restaurants in New York City before moving to Japan. In 2006, he opened Ivan Ramen in Tokyo, a venture inspired by his deep passion for Japanese culture and cuisine and encouraged by his wife.
It’s rare for an American to open a ramen shop in Japan, let alone in Tokyo, the heart of Japan’s ramen scene. What’s even more impressive is that Ivan’s ramen became a hit, winning over even the most discerning Japanese ramen enthusiasts. While he eventually closed Ivan Ramen in Japan, he brought his expertise back to the U.S., where he now runs IVAN RAMEN on the Lower East Side in New York City. His ramen, while rooted in traditional Japanese styles, features unique twists—like his signature roasted tomato topping—that have earned him a devoted following in the U.S. as well.
Ivan’s success across Japan and the U.S. embodies the diversity and creativity in ramen culture, inspiring many to explore the Japanese traditions that captivated him.
As a side note, the original Ivan Ramen location in Japan is now run by his former manager, who has continued the legacy by opening a new ramen shop called “Senkyu (宣久),”which also translates to “Thank You.” The shop features a broth made from saury and tuna, and hearing this story is a testament to the lasting bond Ivan created in Japan.
■David Chang
Image by © Carl Mikoy, Flickr.com
David Chang is absolutely indispensable when discussing the ramen boom in the U.S. His groundbreaking restaurant, Momofuku Noodle Bar, which opened in Manhattan in 2004, was a major catalyst for the ramen craze in the U.S.—a point we touched on in our earlier blog post, “WHAT CAUSED THE RAMEN BOOM IN THE U.S.” Since then, Chang’s culinary empire has expanded far beyond ramen. In addition to his noodle shops, he has launched Momofuku Ko, an upscale dining experience, Momofuku Milk Bar for sweets, and most recently, Chili Crunch, a hit condiment for home cooking (see “WHY ARE ASIAN FOODS TAKING AMERICA BY STORM?“ for more on the rise of Asian condiments).
What sets David Chang apart, though, is his multifaceted media presence. From creating the food magazine Lucky Peach—whose first issue was dedicated to ramen—to hosting podcasts and making guest appearances on TV shows, his influence reaches far beyond the kitchen. Notably, his work with Netflix has brought food culture into mainstream entertainment, with shows like Ugly Delicious and Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner exploring the intersection of food, culture, and innovation. While his bold, boundary-pushing approach to traditional cuisine sometimes draws criticism, there’s no denying that it has pushed the food industry forward.
For many, his innovative spirit seems directly tied to the ramen that launched his career. While he has yet to collaborate with a Japanese ramen restaurant, one can only imagine the exciting, unique creations he could bring to the table—both for Japanese and American audiences.
As a side note, another signature item at Momofuku Noodle Bar, the pork bun, has become a hugely popular appetizer at ramen restaurants across the U.S. Chang’s insight in adding this dish to his menu filled a gap in ramen dining, where options beyond gyoza were previously scarce. It’s just one more example of his knack for introducing fresh ideas that stick.
■Shigetoshi “Jack” Nakamura
Image by © Carl Mikoy, Flickr.com
Shigetoshi Nakamura, now serving up delicious bowls at NAKAMURA on New York’s Lower East Side, started his career early. At just 22, he opened his first ramen restaurant, Nakamuraya (中村屋), in Japan. Despite its location far from the city center, the restaurant quickly gained a loyal following, with people lining up daily for a taste of his self-taught, crystal-clear broth and signature ramen techniques. One of his unique contributions to the ramen world is the now-famous noodle-draining motion known as tenkuu otoshi (天空落とし), which translates to “fall from the sky.” His artistry in preparing ramen, including his method of roasting chashu pork on a shichirin (a Japanese portable charcoal grill), elevated the dish’s flavor and became an innovative hallmark of his style.
You can catch the mesmerizing tenkuu otoshi in action in this video:
After achieving immense success in Japan, Nakamura moved to the U.S. in 2009, and in 2016, he opened NAKAMURA in New York City. His journey into ramen originally began when he studied abroad in San Diego, where he delighted his surfing buddies with bowls of homemade ramen. Now, Nakamura works tirelessly to share authentic Japanese ramen culture with the U.S., earning him the title of “Ramen God,” just as he’s known in Japan.
What sets Nakamura apart is his commitment not only to bringing traditional Japanese ramen to the U.S., but also to creating unique, locally inspired dishes. A perfect example of this fusion is his “Steak Mazemen,” a testament to his ability to blend creativity with traditional techniques. With New York City as his playground, Nakamura continues to push the boundaries of ramen, tapping into the diverse flavors and ingredients the city has to offer. We’ll be keeping a close eye on his future innovations.
You can see Nakamura’s meticulous craftsmanship in this video:
As a fun side note, did you know that Shigetoshi Nakamura’s brother, Hiroto Nakamura, is the owner of AFURI, a popular ramen chain known for its signature yuzu flavor? Hiroto also has several stores in the U.S., including one in Brooklyn. It’s fascinating that both brothers have brought their ramen expertise to New York City, competing in a friendly rivalry across the city’s ramen scene. If you’re curious to learn more, check out the documentary RAMEN FEVER, which dives deeper into their stories.
■Keizo Shimamoto
Keizo Shimamoto’s passion for ramen made a splash in 2013 with his creation of the Ramen Burger, but his journey with ramen started much earlier. As a second-generation Japanese-American born in Los Angeles, Keizo frequently traveled to Japan with his family, where he developed a deep love for ramen through the many bowls he enjoyed across the country. After graduating from college, Keizo initially pursued a career in finance, but the 2007 global financial crisis pushed him to reevaluate his path. It was then that he decided to follow his true passion—ramen.
Keizo moved to Japan to learn the art of ramen-making, apprenticing under Ivan Orkin and even managing a ramen shop called Bassanova. His early days in Japan, where he immersed himself in ramen culture, are beautifully captured in the documentary Ramen Dreams.
During his time in Japan, Keizo traveled extensively—from Hokkaido to Kyushu—sampling ramen from all over the country. In one whirlwind tour, he consumed an astonishing 55 bowls of ramen in just 28 days! These experiences were pivotal in shaping his ramen philosophy and eventually led to his breakthrough: the Ramen Burger.
Image by © Shinya Suzuki, Flickr.com
The inspiration for the Ramen Burger came after Keizo tasted the Kitakata Ramen Burger, a local creation featuring noodles in place of the bun and braised pork belly as the filling. However, Keizo, with his Los Angeles roots, believed that a burger should have a beef patty. This seemingly small, yet pivotal, insight was what transformed the concept and allowed the Ramen Burger to find success in the U.S.—an example of how blending Japanese and American food cultures can lead to exciting new possibilities for ramen.
Keizo went on to open Ramen Shack in both New York and California, where his unique fusion of Japanese ramen and American tastes delighted local fans. Unfortunately, due to health issues and other reasons, his restaurants have since closed. However, his influence on the U.S. ramen scene remains undeniable. Keizo continues to be a key figure in ramen culture, not just for his culinary creations, but for his ability to push the boundaries of what ramen can be.
We’re also fortunate to have Keizo contribute insightful articles to our blog, where he shares his extensive experience and passion for ramen. Be sure to check them out!
■Conclusion
In this issue, we’ve introduced just a few of the individuals who continue to shape the U.S. ramen industry, focusing on the talented chefs behind some of the most influential ramen shops. What do you think? We’ve seen Americans who fell in love with Japanese ramen and created their own unique versions, as well as Japanese chefs who brought their skills and passion to the U.S., helping ignite the ramen boom. It’s incredible to witness this cultural exchange between Japan and the U.S. through something as beloved and versatile as ramen—it truly highlights the depth and richness of this dish.
That’s all for this article! Be sure to join us for the next issue, where we’ll spotlight influencers with a strong Internet presence who are making waves in the U.S. ramen scene.
Reference links:
Ivan Orkin – Chicago Gourmet
今週の1本 『シェフのテーブル』 — 字幕翻訳・吹き替え翻訳 日本映像翻訳アカデミー|映像翻訳 翻訳学校 翻訳受注
いつか東京に戻る日を夢見て 「アイバンラーメン」店主がいまNYで続けていること:朝日新聞GLOBE+
米国人ラーメンマスター、日本の次は故郷で挑戦 “本物のラーメンをニューヨーカーに…” – NewSphere
ニューヨーク通信 外食ビジネスの新発想(91)Ivan Ramen アメリカ人が作る正統派日本ラーメン – 日本食糧新聞・電子版
世界でブレイク&賛否!韓国移民のラーメン王、デイビッド・チャンとは? – QJWeb クイック・ジャパン ウェブ
ニューヨークでラーメンブームを巻き起こした「momofuku noodle Bar」の仕掛人、デイビッド・チャンの新たなる挑戦|@DIME アットダイム
ニューヨークで「帝国」を築いて最も話題のレストラン「モモフク」創業者に密着! 新しい“自分の姿”と“サービス”を追う|クーリエ・ジャポン
「食」のまわりにいるひとたちが考えていること. デイヴィッド・チャンの新番組、日本でも配信開始! | by Junicci Hayakawa / 早川 純一 | ククブク
Meet Chef Nakamura: The “Ramen God” of NYC
「天空落とし」を世に知らしめた、伝説のラーメン職人の描く未来|岡崎美玖の39麺
伝説の店『中村屋』が休業へ 天才ラーメン職人が思い描く新たな夢とは?(山路力也) – エキスパート – Yahoo!ニュース
ついに情報解禁!中村屋ニューヨーク店が1月中旬オープン! | PecoPeco!ついに情報解禁!中村屋ニューヨーク店が1月中旬オープン! | PecoPeco!
How Keizo Shimamoto invented the Ramen Burger | CNN
Keizo Shimamoto Opens NYC’s Best Ramen Shack | Condé Nast Traveler
Ramen Shack, an OC Restaurant From Ramen Burger Inventor, Closes Permanently – Eater LA
世界が注目する「ラーメンバーガー」って何? その答えはニューヨークにあった | 外食 | 東洋経済オンライン
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「ラーメンバーガー」に見るラーメンの未来(山路力也) – エキスパート – Yahoo!ニュース